Remove the loaves or rolls from the oven and transfer them to a cooling rack. This should take anywhere from 5 additional minutes for rolls to 20 minutes for loaves. Rotate the breads 180 degrees, if necessary, for even baking and continue baking until they are a medium golden brown and register at least 200☏ at the center. After the final spray, lower the oven setting to 400☏ and bake for 10 minutes. Repeat twice more at 30-second intervals. After 30 seconds, open the door, spray the oven walls with water, and close the door. Pour 1 cup hot water into the steam pan and close the oven door. Slide the loaves directly onto the baking stone, parchment and all, or place the sheet pan with the loaves or rolls in the oven. Score the loaves or rolls down the center as shown on page 90, or leave the rolls uncut. Just prior to baking, mist the loaves or rolls with water and dust lightly with bread flour by tapping some through a sieve or by flinging the flour across the surface of the dough. Prepare the oven for hearth baking as described on pages 91–94, making sure to have an empty steam pan in place. Proof at room temperature for 60 to 90 minutes, or until the loaves or rolls have risen to approximately 1 3/4 times their original size. Mist the dough lightly with spray oil and cover the pan loosely with plastic. Line a sheet pan with baking parchment, dust with semolina flour or cornmeal, and transfer the dough to the pan. Shape the larger pieces into bâtards (page 73) or the smaller pieces into pistolets (page 80). Mist the dough lightly with spray oil, cover with a towel or plastic wrap, and let the dough rest for 20 minutes. Shape larger pieces into boules (page 72) or smaller pieces into rolls (page 82).
Remove the dough from the bowl and divide it into 2 equal pieces for loaves, or into 9 to 12 smaller pieces (3 to 4 ounces each) for pistolets. If the dough doubles in size before then, remove it from the bowl and knead for a few seconds to degas it (the “punch down”) and then return it to the bowl to continue fermenting until 2 hours have elapsed or until the dough doubles in size again. Step 4įerment at room temperature for 2 hours.
Lightly oil a bowl and transfer the dough to the bowl, rolling it around to coat it with oil. The dough should pass the windowpane test (page 58) and register 77° to 81☏. Knead for about 10 minutes (or mix on medium speed with the dough hook for 6 minutes), adding flour if needed to make a firm but supple dough, slightly tacky but not sticky. Sprinkle flour on the counter and transfer the dough to the counter. If not all the flour is absorbed, add the remaining 2 tablespoons water, or as much as is necessary to make the dough soft and supple, not firm and stiff. Stir together with a large metal spoon (or mix on low speed with the paddle attachment) until the ingredients form a ball. Add the pâte fermentée pieces, egg, butter, malt syrup (if using), and 3/4 cup of the water. Stir together the flour, sugar, malt powder (if using), salt, and yeast in a 4-quart bowl (or in the bowl of an electric mixer). Cover with a towel or plastic wrap and let sit for 1 hour to take off the chill. Cut it into about 10 small pieces with a pastry scraper or serrated knife. Remove the pâte fermentée from the refrigerator 1 hour before making the dough. One of the best applications for this dough is to make Dutch crunch bread, as discussed on page 264.
This dough makes exceptional pistolets (torpedo rolls), similar to the hoagie rolls made from the Italian bread on page 172, and it can be baked in loaf pans for excellent sandwich loaves. It is often scored down the middle to make a nice “ear,” but does not have quite as hard a crust nor as open a crumb as French bread. The shape, as with all culturally based bread, is determined by the baker based on function, but we usually think of Vienna bread as typically twelve inches long and weighing one pound. A little added sugar and malt causes the crust to brown faster, and a small amount of butter or shortening tenderizes the dough by coating and “shortening” the gluten strands. Nowadays, the main distinction in American (and even European) bakeries between French, Italian, and Vienna breads, is the presence of a few enrichments in the latter. Most of the great French breads that we love today, including baguettes, croissants, and even puff pastry, came to France a couple hundred years ago via the Austro-Hungarian empire, where they found a hungry audience willing to support these Austrian (which included Polish) bakers. With all the emphasis on French and Italian rustic breads these days, it is easy to overlook the fact that the real center of the bread and pastry universe for hundreds of years was Vienna.
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